A natural mordant is a substance added to a dye bath to intensify, fix, or alter the color of the dye. It often acts as a bridge, bonding the dye molecule to the fiber and helping to make the color resistant to washing and light. Natural mordants have been safely used in dyeing for millennia. They come from the earth’s crust, from plants, and from insects. The best practices for using natural mordants is an important topic for crafters, artisans and small-scale textile manufacturers who are eager to produce vibrant, durable colors while minimizing harm to the environment.
Mordants are perhaps most crucial in the realm of natural dyeing, where colorfastness can be an issue. Natural mordants can create a bond between the dye and the fiber that is resistant to washing, sunlight and general wear. Utilizing natural mordants can ensure quality results while maintaining a commitment to environmental sustainability.
When using natural mordants, one of the first best practices to remember is safety. Even natural substances can be strong and potentially harmful. Always wear gloves, a mask and eye protection when handling mordants. Work in a well-ventilated area and avoid inhaling dust from powdered mordants.
Alum, perhaps the most commonly used mordant, is typically safe to handle, but excessive inhalation or ingestion can be harmful. Alum is naturally occurring, easy to use and can be found in a variety of sources such as pickling alum from grocery stores or alum from craft and dye supply shops. It is a reliable mordant for all types of fibers and does not alter the color of the dye. To use alum as a mordant, dissolve it in hot water and add to your dye bath before introducing your fabric or fiber.
Iron, also known as ferrous sulfate, is another commonly used natural mordant. It darkens colors and gives them a cool undertone. Using iron is a great way to achieve a wide range of hues with a single dye source. In regards to safety, iron can stain and is not safe to ingest or inhale. Use the same protective measures for iron as you would with alum.
Tannin is a natural mordant found in a variety of plants. It binds to fiber and creates a barrier that allows the dye to adhere better, resulting in brighter, longer-lasting color. Tannin is found in things like tea, oak galls, or the bark of certain trees. It is safe to handle, but ingestion in large amounts can be harmful.
One of the most sustainable practices when using natural mordants is resourcefulness. For instance, you might save and freeze the pits from avocados until you have enough to create a dye bath, which will yield subtle pastel colors. Similarly, you could collect fallen eucalyptus leaves for a warm, rich dye. Kitchen waste like onion skins and used coffee grounds can also be used for dyeing.
Another best practice for using natural mordants is patience. Many natural dyes require time to develop. Some natural dye substances might take several days to a week to fully extract their color. Once the mordant and dye have been introduced to the fabric, allowing the fabric to sit in the dye bath for an extended period can often yield the most vibrant results.
Dyeing sequentially is another best practice. Dyeing sequentially can develop depth of color, or completely change the color. This practice involves dyeing the fabric or fiber in one dye bath, then moving it to another dye bath with a different dye. The result is a complex color that is richer than what a single dye bath could achieve.
The practice of mindfulness in using natural mordants is perhaps one of the most overlooked, yet most vital tips. Being aware and respectful of the environment, the sources of the mordants, dyes and fibers, questioning where these materials come from and their impact are all vital for a sustainable dyeing practice.
Understanding the nature of your fabric or fiber is another key practice. Differing fibers will result in differing colors, even when using the same dye bath. Wool, silk, cotton, and linen each have their unique properties that affect how they react with mordants and dyes. It is thus important to experiment, take notes, and continue to learn from each dyeing process.
Lastly, using natural mordants and dyes is not an exact science. You may not always get the color you expect. Sometimes, the color may vary from what the dye is supposed to produce. It could be due to a variety of factors. Regardless, the results can still be beautiful and the practice worthwhile.
When used responsibly and mindfully, natural mordants present an opportunity to engage with the environment and natural world in a creative and respectful way. By employing the best practices outlined above, you can maximise your success while using natural mordants and bring depth, durability and brilliance to your work with natural dyes.
